Water Pressure OK, Pump Won't Stop?

My Pump Won't Quit! Why 'I Have Water Pressure But My Pump Won't Shut Off' Is a Head-Scratcher (and How to Fix It)

Alright, picture this: you've just showered, the water flow was great, no complaints there. You turn off the faucet, expecting that familiar silence, that sweet relief of your well pump winding down. But it keeps humming. And humming. You've got good water pressure, everything seems fine, yet your pump just won't shut off. If you've ever found yourself thinking, "I have water pressure but my pump won't shut off," you know that unique blend of frustration and confusion. It's like getting a perfect score on a test, but the teacher still insists you haven't finished. Maddening, right?

It sounds totally counterintuitive, doesn't it? If there's pressure, shouldn't the pump simply hit its target and gracefully power down? Well, you're not wrong to think that. This particular issue often points to a hiccup in the sophisticated dance between your pump, pressure switch, and pressure tank. Let's dive in and unravel this mystery, because nobody wants a pump running endlessly, burning out, and costing a fortune in electricity.

The Never-Ending Hum: Understanding the 'I Have Water Pressure But My Pump Won't Shut Off' Mystery

When you say, "I have water pressure but my pump won't shut off," it tells us a couple of crucial things. First, your pump is working – it's actually pushing water into your system, which is a good sign. Second, something is preventing the automatic shut-off mechanism from engaging. Your pump system is designed to maintain water pressure within a specific range. It turns on at a "cut-in" pressure (say, 30 PSI) and turns off at a "cut-out" pressure (maybe 50 PSI). The fact that you have pressure, but the pump keeps going, means it's likely struggling to reach that cut-out pressure, or the signal to shut off isn't getting through.

Why Your Pump Should Shut Off: The Basics of Your Water System

Before we jump into what's wrong, let's quickly recap how a healthy well system should work. Most residential well systems consist of:

The Pump: The workhorse that pulls water from your well.
The Pressure Tank: A crucial component, usually a big blue or grey tank, that holds a reserve of water under pressure, preventing the pump from cycling on and off constantly every time you use a little bit of water. It typically has an air bladder inside.
The Pressure Switch: This is the brains of the operation. It's usually a small box attached to a pipe near your pressure tank, with a couple of wires running to it. It senses the water pressure and tells the pump when to turn on and when to turn off.

When you open a tap, water flows from the pressure tank. As the pressure drops to the "cut-in" point, the pressure switch kicks on the pump. The pump then fills the tank and the system with water until the "cut-out" pressure is reached, at which point the switch tells the pump to shut off. If you've got pressure but the pump won't quit, it means this cycle is broken.

The Plot Twist: Why It's Still Running (Even When Pressure's There)

Okay, so we know what should happen. Now, let's explore the common culprits when your system's acting like a defiant teenager who just won't go to bed.

Pressure Switch Problems

This is often the first place to look. The pressure switch is an electrical-mechanical device, and like anything with moving parts and contacts, it can get finicky.

Stuck or Corroded Contacts: Over time, the electrical contacts inside the switch can get pitted, corroded, or simply stick in the "on" position. Even if the pressure has reached the cut-out point, the stuck contacts mean the electrical circuit to the pump remains closed.
Incorrect Adjustment: Sometimes, someone (maybe even you, accidentally!) might have tinkered with the adjustment screws on the pressure switch. If it's set too high, or the differential (the gap between cut-in and cut-out) is messed up, the pump might just keep chasing a pressure it can't quite hit.
Clogged Sensing Port: The pressure switch has a small tube or port that senses the water pressure. If this gets clogged with sediment, rust, or debris, it won't accurately read the system pressure. It could be reading a lower pressure than what's actually in your pipes, thus never telling the pump to shut off. This is a super common, yet often overlooked, issue!

Leaks, Leaks, Everywhere

This might seem obvious, but even a small, seemingly insignificant leak can prevent your system from ever truly "pressurizing" enough to hit that cut-out point. Think of it like trying to fill a bucket with a tiny hole in the bottom – you're adding water, but it's constantly escaping, so the bucket never quite gets full.

Subtle Plumbing Leaks: Check under sinks, around water heaters, and exposed pipes for any dampness or drips. Even pinhole leaks can slowly bleed off pressure.
Running Toilets: The classic "silent water thief." A faulty flapper valve in your toilet tank can cause water to constantly trickle into the bowl, even if you can't hear it. This is a constant drain on your system, and your pump will just keep trying to compensate. You can test this by adding a few drops of food coloring to the toilet tank (without flushing). If the color appears in the bowl after 15-20 minutes, you've got a leak.
Outdoor Faucets or Hoses: A garden hose left trickling or a faucet that doesn't fully shut off can be enough to keep the pump running.
Underground Leaks: These are the trickiest. If you suspect an underground leak (e.g., soggy spots in your yard, unusually high water bills without visible leaks), it's definitely time to call a professional.

Waterlogged Pressure Tank

Your pressure tank isn't just a reservoir; it's a critical component for maintaining pressure and regulating pump cycles.

Bad Bladder: Most modern pressure tanks have an internal rubber bladder that separates air from water. If this bladder ruptures, the tank becomes "waterlogged," meaning it fills entirely with water and loses its ability to hold an air cushion. Without that air cushion, the pump has to do all the work, cycling on and off rapidly (short-cycling) or, in your case, constantly running because it can't build up enough stable pressure for the switch to register the cut-out point effectively.
Loss of Air Charge: Even if the bladder isn't ruptured, the air charge in the tank (typically 2 PSI below your cut-in pressure) can slowly leak out over time. This also reduces the tank's effectiveness and can lead to rapid cycling or continuous pump operation.

Failing Pump Itself

While you mentioned having water pressure, which suggests the pump is still somewhat functional, it's worth considering if it's struggling to reach that final shut-off pressure.

Worn Impellers or Components: If the pump's internal impellers or other components are worn, it might be less efficient at building and holding pressure. It can get you pressure, but maybe not quite enough to hit the 50 PSI cut-out reliably, especially if there's any small leak in the system.
Check Valve Issues: A faulty check valve (either in the pump itself or in the well line) allows water to flow back down the well when the pump isn't running. This means the pump has to work harder each time to re-pressurize the system from scratch, and if it's leaking significantly, it might never quite hold the pressure long enough to shut off.

Your DIY Detective Work: What You Can Do

Safety First! Before you do anything involving your pump or pressure switch, always turn off the power to the pump at your main electrical panel. Electricity and water do not mix, and your pump circuit carries serious voltage.

Observe Your Pressure Gauge: Watch it closely. Does it ever hit the cut-out pressure (e.g., 50 PSI)? If it gets very close (e.g., 48 PSI) and then stalls or slowly drops, it points to a struggle to reach the threshold, or a very slow leak. If it never gets close, it's a bigger issue.
Check the Pressure Switch:
- Power OFF and depressurize system. Open a faucet somewhere to relieve all the pressure.
- Carefully remove the cover of the pressure switch. Visually inspect the contacts for pitting or corrosion.
- Locate the small port or tube where the switch connects to the water line. Sometimes you can gently clean this out with a thin wire (like a paperclip) if you suspect a clog. Be careful not to bend any internal components.
- With the power still off, you can gently try to move the internal lever of the switch. Does it seem stuck?
Listen for Leaks: With no water running anywhere in the house, go around and listen carefully. Check toilets by listening and using the food coloring trick. Feel around pipes, under sinks, and around your water heater for any moisture.
Test Your Pressure Tank:
- Power OFF and depressurize the system fully. Drain all water from the tank by opening a faucet.
- Find the Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve) on top of your pressure tank.
- Use a tire pressure gauge to check the air pressure. It should be 2 PSI below your pump's cut-in pressure (e.g., if cut-in is 30 PSI, it should read 28 PSI). If it reads zero, or water comes out when you depress the pin, your bladder is likely ruptured, and the tank needs to be replaced. If it's just low, you can try re-inflating it with an air compressor.
Isolate Sections: If you have shut-off valves for different parts of your house (e.g., one for outdoor spigots, one for the house), try closing them one by one. If the pump then shuts off, you've narrowed down the general area of your leak.

When to Call in the Cavalry: Don't Be a Hero

While a lot of this troubleshooting can be done yourself, there are times when it's just better (and safer!) to call a qualified well pump technician or plumber.

Electrical Discomfort: If you're not comfortable working with electrical components, please don't mess with the pressure switch or pump wiring beyond turning off the breaker.
Deep Well Pump Issues: Troubleshooting a submersible pump in the well is a job for pros with specialized equipment.
Suspected Underground Leaks: Locating and fixing these requires expertise.
If You're Stumped: You've tried everything, and the pump still won't quit. Don't waste more time and potentially damage your pump. A professional can diagnose the issue quickly and safely.

Final Thoughts: Peace and Quiet Awaits!

That persistent hum of a pump that won't shut off is more than just annoying; it's a sign that something's not right and needs attention. Ignoring it can lead to premature pump failure, higher electricity bills, and potentially more costly repairs down the road. By systematically checking the pressure switch, looking for leaks, and evaluating your pressure tank, you'll likely find the culprit. And once you do, that blessed silence when you turn off the tap will be all the sweeter. You've got this! Or, if not, there's always a friendly professional ready to lend a hand.